September 2026 · Cool climate zone · VIC

What to plant now in Melbourne

Melbourne gardens live with four seasons in a day: a cold, wet winter that keeps brassicas and broad beans happy, a spring that can throw a late frost at your tomato seedlings, and summers that swing from mild to 40°C in a week. The reward is that almost everything grows here if you get the timing right, and timing is what this page is for.

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The short answer

In short: this September in Melbourne, sow or plant tomato, capsicum, chilli, eggplant, broad beans, peas, snow peas, lettuce, spinach, silverbeet; herbs: parsley, coriander, mint, rosemary, thyme; fruit: strawberry, passionfruit, lemon, orange.

Hold off on zucchini (from October), pumpkin (from October), cucumber (from October).

Vegetables to plant in Melbourne in September

25 vegetables are in their sowing or planting window for the cool zone this month. “Ready in” is time from sowing to first pick.

🍅Tomato

Full sun · Ready in about 12–17 weeks.

Start seed indoors from September; plant out after the last frost.

Varieties for home gardens: Grosse Lisse, Apollo, Tommy Toe, Roma

🫑Capsicum

Full sun · Ready in about 12–16 weeks.

Loves a long warm season. Pick the first fruit green to keep the plant setting more; later fruit can ripen to red on the bush.

Varieties for home gardens: Californian Wonder, Giant Bell

🌶️Chilli

Full sun · Ready in about 12–16 weeks.

Treat like capsicum but tougher — chillies shrug off heat. In frost-free spots a plant will crop for several years.

Varieties for home gardens: Cayenne, Jalapeño, Birdseye

🍆Eggplant

Full sun · Ready in about 12–16 weeks.

Needs real warmth to get going — don't rush it into cold soil. Pick fruit while the skin is glossy; dull skin means seedy and bitter.

Varieties for home gardens: Black Beauty, Lebanese

🫘Broad beans

Full sun · Ready in about 17–22 weeks.

The great winter stalwart — sow in autumn and let them stand through the cold. Pinch out the growing tips once pods set; the tips are delicious wilted in butter.

Varieties for home gardens: Coles Dwarf, Aquadulce

🫛Peas

Full sun · Ready in about 9–11 weeks.

Sow from late winter; late frosts burn flowers, so stagger your sowings.

Varieties for home gardens: Greenfeast, Massey Gem

🫛Snow peas

Full sun · Ready in about 8–10 weeks.

Faster and more forgiving than shelling peas — pick the pods flat and young. The more you pick, the more they set.

Varieties for home gardens: Oregon, Melting Mammoth

🥬Lettuce

Full sun · Ready in about 6–10 weeks.

Sow a pinch every few weeks rather than a packet at once. In heat, pick loose-leaf types leaf by leaf and give them afternoon shade — bolting is the sun's fault, not yours.

Varieties for home gardens: Cos, Buttercrunch, Green Oak

🥬Spinach

Full sun · Ready in about 5–7 weeks.

True English spinach is a cool-weather crop — it bolts the moment things warm up. For summer greens, silverbeet does the same job without the sulking.

Varieties for home gardens: English Winter Giant

🥬Silverbeet

Full sun · Ready in about 7–12 weeks.

The hardest-working plant in the patch — cut the outer leaves and it keeps giving for a year. Twist leaves off at the base rather than cutting the crown.

Varieties for home gardens: Fordhook Giant, Rainbow Chard

🥬Rocket

Full sun · Ready in about 4–6 weeks.

From seed to salad in a month. It bolts fast in heat — sow small amounts often, and let one plant go to seed to keep the supply coming free.

Varieties for home gardens: Wild rocket, Salad rocket

🥬Kale

Full sun · Ready in about 7–9 weeks.

Frost makes kale sweeter, not worse. Pick outer leaves and leave the crown; watch for cabbage white butterflies in the warm months — netting beats spraying.

Varieties for home gardens: Tuscan (Cavolo Nero), Curly Green

🥬Cabbage

Full sun · Ready in about 11–15 weeks.

Sugarloaf types are quick and sweet; savoys stand longer in the cold. Firm heads keep in the fridge for weeks, so don't panic when they all come at once.

Varieties for home gardens: Sugarloaf, Savoy

🥬Pak choy & Asian greens

Full sun · Ready in about 6–10 weeks.

From seed to stir-fry in six weeks, and happy in every zone. Sow small amounts fortnightly; in heat they bolt, so give summer sowings some shade.

Varieties for home gardens: Pak choy, Bok choy, Tatsoi, Choy sum

🥕Carrot

Full sun · Ready in about 12–18 weeks.

Always sow direct — transplanted carrots fork. Keep the seed bed damp until they're up (a plank over the row works), and thin without mercy; crowded carrots stay skinny.

Varieties for home gardens: Topweight, All Seasons, Baby

🫜Beetroot

Full sun · Ready in about 7–10 weeks.

Each wrinkly 'seed' is a cluster, so thin the clumps early — the thinnings are a salad green. Pick at tennis-ball size; giants go woody.

Varieties for home gardens: Derwent Globe, Bull's Blood

🫜Radish

Full sun · Ready in about 4–6 weeks.

The fastest thing you can grow — great for impatient gardeners and grandchildren. Sow a short row every fortnight and pull them young.

Varieties for home gardens: French Breakfast, Cherry Belle

🥕Parsnip

Full sun · Ready in about 17–20 weeks.

Buy fresh seed every year — old parsnip seed simply doesn't come up. Slow to germinate and slow to grow, but frost turns the wait into sweetness.

Varieties for home gardens: Hollow Crown

🫜Turnip

Full sun · Ready in about 6–9 weeks.

Quick, old-fashioned and underrated — pull at golf-ball size and they're sweet, not school-dinner. The young tops are good wilted too.

Varieties for home gardens: Purple Top White Globe

🥔Potato

Full sun · Ready in about 15–20 weeks.

Plant certified seed potatoes, not supermarket spuds, and hill soil up around the stems as they grow. Ready to bandicoot once the plants flower; for keepers, wait until the tops die down.

Varieties for home gardens: Sebago, Dutch Cream, Kipfler

🧅Spring onion

Full sun · Ready in about 8–12 weeks.

Sow thickly, harvest by the handful, and re-sow the gap — or just trim them 3cm above the soil and let them regrow. The workhorse of the herb-and-veg border.

Varieties for home gardens: Straightleaf, Red Beard

🧅Leek

Full sun · Ready in about 15–18 weeks.

Drop pencil-thick seedlings into deep dibber holes, water them in and don't backfill — the hole blanches the stem white as it grows. Stands happily in winter soil until you want it.

Varieties for home gardens: Musselburgh, Welsh Wonder

🥬Celery

Full sun · Ready in about 14–16 weeks.

The thirstiest thing in the patch — never let it dry out or it turns stringy and bitter. Pick outer stalks as you need them rather than taking the whole plant.

Varieties for home gardens: Stringless, South Australian White

🌿Rhubarb

Full sun · Pick lightly from the second year; a settled crown gives for a decade.

Plant crowns in winter into rich soil and let them settle for a year before picking hard. Pull stalks with a twist rather than cutting — and remember the leaves are poisonous, compost only.

Varieties for home gardens: Wandin Red, Ever Red

🌿Globe artichoke

Full sun · First heads the spring after planting; divide clumps every 3–4 years.

Half vegetable, half silver-leafed ornament — plant it where you can see it. Cut heads while the scales are still tight; once they open into thistle flowers the moment has passed (though the bees approve).

Varieties for home gardens: Green Globe, Purple de Provence

Get this for your own patch, week by week

The Morning Post Garden Planner takes your postcode and frost dates, tells you what to sow, plant and pick this week, prints a 12-month calendar for the shed wall, and keeps a log of what you planted with harvest reminders. It’s one of the members’ tools, included in Morning Post membership: $79 a year for the household.

Herbs to plant in Melbourne in September

Most herbs are happiest in a pot near the kitchen door; plant the perennials once and pick for years.

🌿Parsley

Full sun · Ready in about 9–12 weeks.

Slow to germinate — soak seed overnight and be patient for three weeks. One good sowing a year keeps a family in parsley; let a plant seed and you'll never sow again.

Varieties for home gardens: Flat-leaf (Italian), Curly

🌿Coriander

Full sun · Ready in about 5–7 weeks.

Coriander bolts at the first sign of heat or transplanting — sow direct in the cool months and pick fast. When it does bolt, let it: the seed is a spice and it self-sows.

Varieties for home gardens: Slow-bolt strains

🌿Mint

Part shade · Pick year-round once established.

Plant it in a pot, always — in open soil mint annexes the bed within a season. Loves damp shade and hard picking; cut it back to nothing twice a year.

Varieties for home gardens: Common mint, Spearmint, Peppermint

🌿Rosemary

Full sun · Pick sprigs year-round once established.

Thrives on neglect, sun and sharp drainage — the classic no-fuss Australian shrub. Prune after flowering to keep it dense; strike cuttings for free plants.

Varieties for home gardens: Tuscan Blue (upright), Prostrate

🌿Thyme

Full sun · Pick year-round; trim after flowering.

Happiest hot, dry and a little starved — rich wet soil kills it kindly. Grow it at the path edge where you'll brush past and get the scent.

Varieties for home gardens: Common thyme, Lemon thyme

🌿Oregano

Full sun · Pick year-round; flavour peaks just before flowering.

Cut it back hard twice a year and dry the trimmings — dried oregano is one of the few herbs better than fresh. Spreads politely as a groundcover.

Varieties for home gardens: Greek oregano, Common marjoram

🌿Chives

Full sun · Snip year-round; dies back in cold winters and returns.

Cut with scissors 3cm above the soil and they regrow within weeks. Divide the clumps every few years and give spares away — the pink pompom flowers are edible too.

Varieties for home gardens: Common chives, Garlic chives

🌿Dill

Full sun · Ready in about 6–8 weeks.

Sow direct — like coriander it bolts if moved or overheated. Feathery leaves for fish and potatoes, seed heads for pickling; let some self-sow.

Varieties for home gardens: Common dill, Fernleaf

🌿Sage

Full sun · Pick year-round; replace woody plants every 4–5 years.

Sun, drainage, and not much else — soggy winters are the only thing that kills it. Pick before flowering for the best leaves; unbeatable with pumpkin and butter.

Varieties for home gardens: Common sage, Purple sage

Fruit to plant in Melbourne in September

Fruit trees and vines are a once-a-year decision: this is a good month to get them in the ground in your zone.

🍓Strawberry

Full sun · Fruits from spring (winter in the subtropics); replace plants every 3 years.

Plant runners with the crown proud of the soil, mulch with straw (the clue's in the name) and net before the birds do their rounds. Runners from your best plants are next year's bed for free.

Varieties for home gardens: Red Gauntlet, Sweetheart, Alinta

🌺Passionfruit

Full sun · First fruit in 12–18 months; vines give their best for 5–7 years.

Frost-tender, especially young — give it a warm north-facing wall and cover its first winters.

Varieties for home gardens: Nellie Kelly (grafted), Panama Gold, Panama Red

🍋Lemon

Full sun · First decent crop ~3 years after planting; then fruit most of the year.

Choose Meyer and protect young trees from frost for their first two winters.

Varieties for home gardens: Eureka, Lisbon, Meyer (hardiest in cold spots)

🍊Orange

Full sun · First good crop ~3–4 years; navels ripen through winter.

Navels for winter eating, Valencias for summer juice — plant one of each and you're covered most of the year. Same care as a lemon: feed twice a year, water deeply in dry spells.

Varieties for home gardens: Washington Navel, Valencia

🍋Lime

Full sun · First good crop ~3 years after planting.

The most cold-shy of the common citrus — give it the warmest corner you have. Tahitian for juice, makrut for leaves, and the native finger lime if you like showing off.

Varieties for home gardens: Tahitian, Makrut (kaffir), Australian finger lime

🫐Blueberry

Full sun, acid soil · Light picking year 2; full crops from year 3–4.

Needs acid soil — in most gardens that means a big pot of camellia-azalea mix. Water with rain water where you can, net the crop, and pick only berries that are fully blue-black.

Varieties for home gardens: Brigitta & Blue Rose (cool), Sunshine Blue & Misty (low-chill)

Coming into harvest in Melbourne this month

Worked back from each crop’s sowing window and its usual weeks-to-harvest in the cool zone. If you got these in on time, start checking them now.

🫘 Broad beansif you planted in April
🥬 Rocketif you planted in August

Not yet: what to hold off planting in Melbourne

Frosts likely April – October. Frost is a suburb-by-suburb story in Melbourne: the inner north and the bayside suburbs see few, while the outer east (Lilydale, Yarra Glen), the north (Craigieburn, Whittlesea) and the Dandenongs can frost well into October.

🥒 Zucchiniwait until October — frost-tender
🎃 Pumpkinwait until October — frost-tender
🥒 Cucumberwait until October — frost-tender
🫛 Bush beanswait until October — frost-tender
🌽 Sweet cornwait until October — frost-tender
🌿 Basilwait until October — frost-tender
🥦 Broccoliwait until December
🧄 Garlicwait until March

This month’s jobs in the Melbourne garden

  • Hold your nerve — one late frost can take out early tomatoes, so keep covers handy
  • Feed the whole garden as growth takes off
  • Watch for aphids on new growth; squash small outbreaks by hand

Frost in Melbourne

Frost is a suburb-by-suburb story in Melbourne: the inner north and the bayside suburbs see few, while the outer east (Lilydale, Yarra Glen), the north (Craigieburn, Whittlesea) and the Dandenongs can frost well into October.

Soil

Soils run from heavy clay in the east (Doncaster, Ringwood) to sand along the bay and the old basalt plains out west, so dig in compost every season whichever you have.

Water

Melbourne Water's permanent water-saving rules apply year-round: watering systems only between 6pm and 10am, hand-held hoses any time with a trigger nozzle.

The pest that matters here

Snails and slugs after every wet spell, and Queensland fruit fly has crept into Melbourne suburbs in recent years — net tomatoes and stone fruit rather than assume you are safe.

Local rule of thumb

The old Melbourne rule is to plant tomatoes out after Cup Day (the first Tuesday in November). Gardeners on the bayside and inner suburbs often chance it a fortnight earlier; anyone in the Dandenongs or the outer north should wait for the Cup.

Six Melbourne tips

  • Cover-and-uncover beats gambling: keep an old sheet or a frost cloth by the back door from August to October for the nights the forecast dips under 3°C.
  • Raise tomato, capsicum and chilli seed indoors on a warm windowsill from September so you have strong seedlings the day the frost risk passes.
  • Melbourne's summer heat spikes arrive fast: a 30% shade cloth over lettuce and leafy greens in January and February keeps them from bolting.
  • Mulch deep before December. A 5–7cm layer of pea straw or sugar-cane mulch is the difference between watering twice a week and every day in a hot spell.
  • Garlic goes in around the shortest day and comes out around the longest, and Melbourne's cold winter is exactly what it wants.
  • For seedlings and advice, CERES in Brunswick East, the Collingwood Children's Farm and Bulleen Art & Garden all stock varieties chosen for Melbourne conditions.

When to plant tomatoes, potatoes, garlic and more in Melbourne

Sowing and planting windows for the cool zone, which covers Canberra, Melbourne, Bendigo, Tasmania and the tablelands. Frost-tender crops go in after your district’s last frost; The old Melbourne rule is to plant tomatoes out after Cup Day (the first Tuesday in November). Gardeners on the bayside and inner suburbs often chance it a fortnight earlier; anyone in the Dandenongs or the outer north should wait for the Cup.

CropSow or plant in Melbourne
🍅 TomatoSeptember – December — now
🥔 PotatoSeptember – November — now
🧄 GarlicMarch – June
🥒 ZucchiniOctober – January
🎃 PumpkinOctober – December
🥒 CucumberOctober – January
🫛 Bush beansOctober – January
🫑 CapsicumSeptember – November — now
🌽 Sweet cornOctober – December
🫘 Broad beansMarch – September — now
🫛 PeasAugust – November — now
🥕 CarrotSeptember – February — now
🧅 OnionApril – August
🍓 StrawberryApril – May and September – October — now
🌿 BasilOctober – December
🥦 BroccoliDecember – March

Looking ahead: October in Melbourne

Opening up next month: zucchini, pumpkin, cucumber, sweet corn, bush beans, climbing beans, watermelon, rockmelon, basil. This page is rebuilt every month from the Garden Planner’s cool-zone calendar, so bookmark it and come back on the 1st.

Questions Melbourne gardeners ask

When should I plant tomatoes in Melbourne?

In Melbourne’s cool zone, tomatoes are sown or planted September – December. The old Melbourne rule is to plant tomatoes out after Cup Day (the first Tuesday in November). Gardeners on the bayside and inner suburbs often chance it a fortnight earlier; anyone in the Dandenongs or the outer north should wait for the Cup.

What can I plant in Melbourne right now, in September?

In short: this September in Melbourne, sow or plant tomato, capsicum, chilli, eggplant, broad beans, peas, snow peas, lettuce, spinach, silverbeet; herbs: parsley, coriander, mint, rosemary, thyme; fruit: strawberry, passionfruit, lemon, orange. Hold off on zucchini (from October), pumpkin (from October), cucumber (from October).

Is Melbourne a cool, temperate or subtropical gardening zone?

Melbourne sits in the cool zone on the standard Australian seed-packet climate map — Cold frosty winters, short warm summers — timing matters most here. Frosts likely April – October.

What is coming into harvest in Melbourne in September?

If you planted on time, broad beans, rocket should be coming into harvest now.

Which Melbourne suburbs get frost?

Frost is a suburb-by-suburb story in Melbourne: the inner north and the bayside suburbs see few, while the outer east (Lilydale, Yarra Glen), the north (Craigieburn, Whittlesea) and the Dandenongs can frost well into October. If you garden in those areas, treat every clear, still night from April to October as a possible frost.

What to plant now in other cities

Planting windows are the Garden Planner’s curated cool-zone calendar (the standard five-zone Australian model, each zone anchored to its harshest common member), reviewed against Gardenate, Yates and state agriculture sources in 2026. Your own garden may run a fortnight either way of the zone: a north-facing wall, a frost hollow or a coastal breeze all shift it. Members can set their exact frost dates in the planner.