🍅Tomato
Skip the steamy mid-summer — autumn and late winter sowings do best.
Varieties for home gardens: Grosse Lisse, Apollo, Tommy Toe, Roma
Brisbane's vegetable calendar runs upside-down compared with the southern capitals: the mild, dry winter is the best time to grow the European crops (tomatoes, lettuce, broccoli, peas), while the hot, wet summer belongs to the tropicals like snake beans, okra, sweet potato and eggplant. Get that switch right and you can harvest something every week of the year.
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In short: this September in Brisbane, sow or plant tomato, capsicum, chilli, eggplant, zucchini, pumpkin, cucumber, sweet corn, bush beans, climbing beans; herbs: basil, mint; fruit: passionfruit, lemon, orange, lime.
Hold off on carrot (from February), garlic (from March), strawberry (from March).
21 vegetables are in their sowing or planting window for the subtropical zone this month. “Ready in” is time from sowing to first pick.
Skip the steamy mid-summer — autumn and late winter sowings do best.
Varieties for home gardens: Grosse Lisse, Apollo, Tommy Toe, Roma
Loves a long warm season. Pick the first fruit green to keep the plant setting more; later fruit can ripen to red on the bush.
Varieties for home gardens: Californian Wonder, Giant Bell
Treat like capsicum but tougher — chillies shrug off heat. In frost-free spots a plant will crop for several years.
Varieties for home gardens: Cayenne, Jalapeño, Birdseye
Needs real warmth to get going — don't rush it into cold soil. Pick fruit while the skin is glossy; dull skin means seedy and bitter.
Varieties for home gardens: Black Beauty, Lebanese
Two plants feed a street. Pick at 15–20cm every second day — a day late and you've grown a marrow. Water at the base to dodge powdery mildew.
Varieties for home gardens: Blackjack, Golden
Give it room to ramble or a strong fence to climb. Ready when the stalk is corky and the shell resists a thumbnail — cure in the sun for a week and they'll store for months.
Varieties for home gardens: Kent (Jap), Butternut, Queensland Blue
Climbs happily up a trellis, which keeps fruit straight and clean. Pick young and often; bitter fruit usually means thirsty plants.
Varieties for home gardens: Lebanese, Apple, Burpless
Plant in blocks, never a single row — corn is wind-pollinated and a block sets full cobs. Ready when the silks are brown and a squeezed kernel runs milky.
Varieties for home gardens: Honeysweet F1, Balinese
Direct-sow into warm soil — beans hate transplanting and cold feet. Pick every couple of days to keep the flowers coming.
Varieties for home gardens: Brown Beauty, Gourmet Delight
One wigwam of climbers out-crops a whole row of bush beans and keeps going for months. Get the frame in before you sow, not after.
Varieties for home gardens: Blue Lake, Purple King
Sow a pinch every few weeks rather than a packet at once. In heat, pick loose-leaf types leaf by leaf and give them afternoon shade — bolting is the sun's fault, not yours.
Varieties for home gardens: Cos, Buttercrunch, Green Oak
The hardest-working plant in the patch — cut the outer leaves and it keeps giving for a year. Twist leaves off at the base rather than cutting the crown.
Varieties for home gardens: Fordhook Giant, Rainbow Chard
From seed to stir-fry in six weeks, and happy in every zone. Sow small amounts fortnightly; in heat they bolt, so give summer sowings some shade.
Varieties for home gardens: Pak choy, Bok choy, Tatsoi, Choy sum
The fastest thing you can grow — great for impatient gardeners and grandchildren. Sow a short row every fortnight and pull them young.
Varieties for home gardens: French Breakfast, Cherry Belle
Plant certified seed potatoes, not supermarket spuds, and hill soil up around the stems as they grow. Ready to bandicoot once the plants flower; for keepers, wait until the tops die down.
Varieties for home gardens: Sebago, Dutch Cream, Kipfler
Grown from rooted cuttings ('slips') rather than seed. Give it warmth and room — the vine wanders — then harvest when leaves yellow, and cure in the sun for a week.
Varieties for home gardens: Beauregard (gold), Northern Star (white)
Sow thickly, harvest by the handful, and re-sow the gap — or just trim them 3cm above the soil and let them regrow. The workhorse of the herb-and-veg border.
Varieties for home gardens: Straightleaf, Red Beard
Needs heat, room and steady water while fruit swells. Ready when the tendril nearest the fruit browns off and the underside turns from white to buttery yellow.
Varieties for home gardens: Sugar Baby, Candy Red
A ripe rockmelon tells you — it smells sweet at the stem and slips off with a gentle twist. Ease off the water in the last week for better flavour.
Varieties for home gardens: Hales Best, Planters Jumbo
The hotter the better — okra sulks below 25°. Pick pods at finger length every second day; anything bigger goes woody fast.
Varieties for home gardens: Clemson Spineless
The bean that laughs at humidity — where ordinary beans give up in the steam, snake beans thrive. Give them a tall trellis and pick pods young at 30–40cm.
Varieties for home gardens: Red Seeded, Black Seeded, Red Dragon
The Morning Post Garden Planner takes your postcode and frost dates, tells you what to sow, plant and pick this week, prints a 12-month calendar for the shed wall, and keeps a log of what you planted with harvest reminders. It’s one of the members’ tools, included in Morning Post membership: $79 a year for the household.
Most herbs are happiest in a pot near the kitchen door; plant the perennials once and pick for years.
Plant when you plant tomatoes — they're companions in the bed and the bowl. Pinch out flower spikes the moment they show and the leaves keep coming.
Varieties for home gardens: Sweet Genovese, Thai, Perennial basil
Plant it in a pot, always — in open soil mint annexes the bed within a season. Loves damp shade and hard picking; cut it back to nothing twice a year.
Varieties for home gardens: Common mint, Spearmint, Peppermint
Fruit trees and vines are a once-a-year decision: this is a good month to get them in the ground in your zone.
A vigorous vine that wants a strong fence, full sun and a generous feed in spring and late summer. Fruit is ripe when it drops — wrinkles mean sweeter, not spoiled.
Varieties for home gardens: Nellie Kelly (grafted), Panama Gold, Panama Red
The one tree every Australian backyard earns its keep on. Feed in late winter and late summer, keep the root zone mulched (clear of the trunk), and prune only to shape after harvest.
Varieties for home gardens: Eureka, Lisbon, Meyer (hardiest in cold spots)
Navels for winter eating, Valencias for summer juice — plant one of each and you're covered most of the year. Same care as a lemon: feed twice a year, water deeply in dry spells.
Varieties for home gardens: Washington Navel, Valencia
The most cold-shy of the common citrus — give it the warmest corner you have. Tahitian for juice, makrut for leaves, and the native finger lime if you like showing off.
Varieties for home gardens: Tahitian, Makrut (kaffir), Australian finger lime
In Queensland, biosecurity rules restrict moving banana plants and suckers — buy disease-tested plants from a QBAN (Quality Banana Approved Nursery) supplier rather than transplanting a mate's suckers.
Varieties for home gardens: Cavendish, Lady Finger, Ducasse
Plant a grafted tree at the start of the wet with room to become a shade tree. Once established it needs little — a feed at flowering, and patience while the possums negotiate their share.
Varieties for home gardens: Kensington Pride (Bowen), R2E2, dwarf 'Irwin' for smaller yards
Fast, generous and short-lived — plant two or three every spring and retire the oldest. Perfect drainage is non-negotiable; a mound solves most pawpaw problems.
Varieties for home gardens: Red papaya, Southern Red, bisexual strains
Worked back from each crop’s sowing window and its usual weeks-to-harvest in the subtropical zone. If you got these in on time, start checking them now.
Occasional light frosts June – August, mostly inland. Frost is rare in Brisbane itself and along the bay; it does turn up on clear winter nights in the western suburbs, Samford, the Lockyer Valley and the Scenic Rim.
Frost is rare in Brisbane itself and along the bay; it does turn up on clear winter nights in the western suburbs, Samford, the Lockyer Valley and the Scenic Rim.
Much of Brisbane sits on heavy clay that bakes hard in spring and waterlogs in the wet, so raised beds and a generous compost habit make a real difference.
Spring (September to November) is Brisbane's driest stretch and the time young plants most need a hand; once the summer storms start the problem flips to drainage.
Queensland fruit fly is active nearly year-round in Brisbane and worst from spring to autumn, which is why the winter tomato crop is the reliable one.
The Brisbane rule is to plant your tomatoes when the southerners are pulling theirs out: sow from March, plant out in April and May, and pick through winter before the fruit fly and the wet arrive.
Sowing and planting windows for the subtropical zone, which covers Brisbane, the QLD and northern NSW coast. Frost-tender crops go in after your district’s last frost; The Brisbane rule is to plant your tomatoes when the southerners are pulling theirs out: sow from March, plant out in April and May, and pick through winter before the fruit fly and the wet arrive.
| Crop | Sow or plant in Brisbane |
|---|---|
| 🍅 Tomato | February – April and July – September — now |
| 🥔 Potato | February – March and August – September — now |
| 🧄 Garlic | March – April |
| 🥒 Zucchini | February – March and August – November — now |
| 🎃 Pumpkin | August – January — now |
| 🥒 Cucumber | August – March — now |
| 🫛 Bush beans | March – April and August – November — now |
| 🫑 Capsicum | August – February — now |
| 🌽 Sweet corn | August – January — now |
| 🫘 Broad beans | April – May |
| 🫛 Peas | April – July |
| 🥕 Carrot | February – August |
| 🧅 Onion | April – June |
| 🍓 Strawberry | March – May |
| 🌿 Basil | September – February — now |
| 🥦 Broccoli | March – May |
Opening up next month — the same crops as this month carry on. This page is rebuilt every month from the Garden Planner’s subtropical-zone calendar, so bookmark it and come back on the 1st.
In Brisbane’s subtropical zone, tomatoes are sown or planted February – April and July – September. The Brisbane rule is to plant your tomatoes when the southerners are pulling theirs out: sow from March, plant out in April and May, and pick through winter before the fruit fly and the wet arrive.
In short: this September in Brisbane, sow or plant tomato, capsicum, chilli, eggplant, zucchini, pumpkin, cucumber, sweet corn, bush beans, climbing beans; herbs: basil, mint; fruit: passionfruit, lemon, orange, lime. Hold off on carrot (from February), garlic (from March), strawberry (from March).
Brisbane sits in the subtropical zone on the standard Australian seed-packet climate map — Warm humid summers, mild dry winters — your calendar runs upside-down: winter is peak growing. Occasional light frosts June – August, mostly inland.
If you planted on time, broad beans, peas, snow peas, lettuce, spinach, silverbeet, rocket, cabbage should be coming into harvest now.
Brisbane's vegetable calendar runs upside-down compared with the southern capitals: the mild, dry winter is the best time to grow the European crops (tomatoes, lettuce, broccoli, peas), while the hot, wet summer belongs to the tropicals like snake beans, okra, sweet potato and eggplant. Southern planting guides will have you sowing tomatoes in spring, which in Brisbane means fruit fly and storm damage; sow them in autumn instead.
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Planting windows are the Garden Planner’s curated subtropical-zone calendar (the standard five-zone Australian model, each zone anchored to its harshest common member), reviewed against Gardenate, Yates and state agriculture sources in 2026. Your own garden may run a fortnight either way of the zone: a north-facing wall, a frost hollow or a coastal breeze all shift it. Members can set their exact frost dates in the planner.